Roger Bisby tries out a Quickslide sash window.
As many homeowners seek to restore their properties to their former appearance putting sliding sash windows in is a top priority. Made to measure timber windows are expensive and are often made of quick grown low density soft wood that is not pressure treated against rot. In the case of this basement window the previous replacement window in timber had lasted just over ten years. It was therefore decided to try a PVCu window. Despite the fact that this is a basement studio the householder was still very keen to keep the appearance of a sliding sash, particularly as the house is in a conservation area.
The householder asked me to see what I could find a product that would look good but still offer maintenance free option. I didn’t have to look far. Quickslide was an obvious choice. The company has built a good reputation for quality sliding sash windows and they turn them around quickly at a very reasonable price which helps retain the margins for the installer.
If you have no experience of fitting replacement windows, then you want to give yourself an easy introduction. The first thing is to measure the opening in three places. We all know at that brickwork can drift a few millimetres so you don’t want any nasty surprises when it comes to putting the window in.
Having got the measurements right you need to send them in to the company who will then email or fax you back a drawing of the window with all relevant details. Once you confirm the order the window is made and delivered to site or your merchants if you prefer.
The window is ready glazed which saves a lot of frigging about with beads and spacers and it only takes minutes to put in. You can use metal brackets if you haven’t plastered the reveals but if you are trying not to disturb the surrounding plaster then foaming them in is an obvious way to go.
Quickslide specifically advises against using foam because it can distort the frame and impeded that lovely sliding action. However, foam is such a good invention I see no reason to avoid it. Provided you use limited expansion foam very sparingly and brace the window then there shouldn’t be a problem. I used a few plastic wedges and some Geocel Insta Stick to fix the window in place. I then braced across the window and left it to set. The frame is steel reinforced and being a short section it didn’t move a single millimetre.
I must have done easier jobs but I can’t remember when. Half the art with replacement windows is getting the old ones out without bringing the surrounding plaster down around your ears. This is particularly true of box sashes which sit behind the reveal but if you take it gently and saw sections of frame out you should be fine.
Lifting the window in
The windows are ready glazed and this one was just on the limit of a one-man lift.
The Duck Tape is there to hold the sill ends in place but I thought I would run a bit over the screw heads just to stop any residual moisture from the below ground brickwork from migrating into the frame.
If you use foam, make it a limited expansion foam and use it very sparingly. You can always add a bit more if there are gaps but once the window has been pushed out of line it just won’t slide smoothly or quickly for that matter.
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